Electric and Induction Cooktop Installation Requirements: A Complete Guide

Installing an electric or induction cooktop is not a plug-and-play job. Even if the old unit was a gas cooktop, or the old range is going away and a separate cooktop is coming in, there are real electrical requirements that have to be met before the unit goes in the counter. Get this wrong and you are looking at nuisance tripping, damaged appliances, failed inspections, or — at the extreme end — a house fire.

This guide covers everything: how circuits work, wire sizing, breaker sizing, cutout dimensions, ventilation, permits, the gas-to-electric conversion process, and where most people go wrong. It is written for homeowners who want to understand what they are getting into, and for contractors who want a solid reference.

How Electric and Induction Cooktops Actually Work

Before getting into the installation requirements, it helps to understand what you are installing. Electric resistance and induction cooktops both run on 240V AC power and look similar sitting in a counter, but they heat food in fundamentally different ways.

Electric Resistance (Radiant) Cooktops

Electric resistance cooktops use heating elements — either coil elements under a ceramic glass surface or exposed coil burners on a traditional cooktop — to generate heat. The element gets hot, the heat transfers to the pan, the pan cooks the food. These cooktops will work with any cookware. Cast iron, stainless steel, copper, aluminum, glass — it does not matter. The element heats regardless.

The downside is efficiency. A significant portion of the heat goes sideways or into the air rather than into the pan. The glass surface retains heat long after the element is off, which is a burn hazard. Response time to temperature changes is slower than gas or induction.

Wattage ranges for standard residential electric cooktops typically fall between 6,200W and 10,000W for 4-element units, though high-performance models can go higher.

Induction Cooktops

Induction cooktops use electromagnetic coils beneath the glass surface. When power is applied, the coil generates an alternating magnetic field. If a ferromagnetic pan sits on the surface, the magnetic field induces eddy currents directly in the pan's base, and those currents heat the pan. The glass surface itself does not get hot from the coil — it only heats from contact with a hot pan.

The practical results: induction is faster than electric resistance, more efficient (roughly 85-90% efficiency vs. 70-75% for radiant), and the surface is much cooler to the touch. Response to temperature changes is nearly instantaneous, closer to gas than to traditional electric.

The catch: the cookware must be ferromagnetic. That means cast iron and most stainless steel work fine. Pure aluminum, copper, glass, and most non-stick pans (unless they have a magnetic base) do not work. A simple test is holding a magnet to the bottom of the pan — if it sticks, the pan works on induction.

Installation Differences Between the Two Types

From a rough wiring and circuit standpoint, induction and electric resistance cooktops have nearly identical requirements. Both need a 240V dedicated circuit, a breaker sized to the load, and wire sized to the circuit. The specific amperage may differ unit to unit, but the process is the same.

Where induction differs in installation details:

Some induction cooktops have built-in ventilation (downdraft systems) that adds wiring complexity and duct routing requirements.
Induction units are often slightly thinner and may have different cutout depth requirements.
Induction cooktops can be more sensitive to electromagnetic interference from nearby wiring runs, though this is rarely a practical issue in residential work.

Electrical Requirements

This is the core of the installation. Every other consideration is secondary to getting the circuit right.

240V Dedicated Circuit

Electric and induction cooktops require a dedicated 240-volt circuit. "Dedicated" means that circuit feeds only the cooktop — nothing else shares the breaker or the wiring. No outlets, no other appliances, no sharing with the oven (more on that below).

A 240V circuit in residential construction uses two hot legs (each 120V relative to neutral, 240V between them), a neutral, and a ground. The neutral is required because some cooktop controls and displays run on 120V.

The circuit originates at the main electrical panel (or a sub-panel), runs through the appropriate wire to a location inside the cabinet below the cooktop, and terminates either at a receptacle or a junction box for hardwired connection.

Reading the Cooktop Nameplate

Before you size anything, read the nameplate on the unit. Every appliance has one — usually a sticker or stamped plate on the underside or back of the unit. It will list:

Rated voltage (e.g., 240V or 208-240V)
Rated wattage or rated amperage
Maximum amperage or minimum circuit amperage (MCA)
Maximum overcurrent protection (MOCP) — the maximum breaker size

The MCA (Minimum Circuit Amperage) is the number that drives your wire sizing. The MOCP tells you the largest breaker you can install. Some nameplates list wattage only; in that case, convert using the formula below.

Wattage to Amperage Conversion

Amperage = Wattage / Voltage

For a 240V circuit:

Wattage	Amperage (240V)	Typical Breaker	Wire Gauge
5,500W	22.9A	30A	10 AWG
6,000W	25.0A	30A	10 AWG
7,200W	30.0A	40A	8 AWG
8,000W	33.3A	40A	8 AWG
9,600W	40.0A	50A	6 AWG
10,000W	41.7A	50A	6 AWG
11,200W	46.7A	60A	6 AWG
12,000W	50.0A	60A	4 AWG

Note: Most residential 4-burner cooktops fall in the 6,000W–10,000W range. Commercial-grade residential units can exceed 12,000W.

Breaker Sizing: The 125% Continuous Load Rule

The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires that a circuit feeding a continuous load — one that runs for three hours or more — be sized at 125% of the full load amperage. Cooktops qualify as continuous loads.

Formula: Required circuit amperage = MCA x 1.25, then round up to the next standard breaker size.

Standard residential breaker sizes: 15A, 20A, 30A, 40A, 50A, 60A.

Examples:

Cooktop MCA	x 1.25	Round Up To	Breaker Size
20A	25.0A	30A	30A
24A	30.0A	30A	30A
30A	37.5A	40A	40A
32A	40.0A	40A	40A
40A	50.0A	50A	50A
44A	55.0A	60A	60A

Always verify that your calculated breaker size does not exceed the MOCP listed on the nameplate. The nameplate MOCP is a ceiling — go over it and you void the listing and the warranty.

Wire Gauge by Circuit Amperage

Wire gauge must match the breaker size — you cannot put smaller wire on a larger breaker. The breaker's job is to protect the wire; if the wire can only handle 30A worth of current before overheating and the breaker is set for 50A, the breaker will not trip until the wire is already damaged.

Use copper wire. Aluminum is sometimes used for large feeders but is not recommended for cooktop branch circuits in most residential work due to connection reliability issues.

Breaker Size	Minimum Wire Gauge (Copper)	Ampacity at 60°C
30A	10 AWG	30A
40A	8 AWG	40A
50A	6 AWG	55A
60A	4 AWG	70A

For runs longer than 100 feet, voltage drop becomes a consideration. A long run at the minimum wire gauge may cause enough voltage drop that the cooktop does not perform properly. For runs over 75 feet, consult a voltage drop calculator and upsize wire if needed.

The cable type for a cooktop circuit is typically:

NM-B (Romex): Acceptable in conditioned residential spaces inside walls and ceilings.
MC cable: Used where more physical protection is needed.
THHN in conduit: Used when running through unfinished areas, in conduit through cabinets, or where the installation requires conduit by code or local amendment.

Wiring the Cooktop: Hardwired vs. Receptacle

Cooktops are connected one of two ways: hardwired (no plug) or through a receptacle and plug. Which method is correct depends on the cooktop's nameplate, the local jurisdiction, and sometimes the specific installation.

Hardwired Connection

Most high-wattage cooktops (50A and above) are designed to be hardwired. The supply cable enters the cooktop's junction box through a strain relief fitting and connects directly to the unit's terminals. There is no plug.

For a hardwired cooktop, the NEC requires that the junction box be accessible without removing the cooktop. In practice, this usually means the junction box is located inside the cabinet directly below the cooktop cutout, with the conduit or cable running up through the cabinet floor or side and into the cooktop.

Receptacle Connection

Cooktops with a MCA of 30A or 40A are frequently plug-connected using a NEMA 14-30 or NEMA 14-50 receptacle. The receptacle is mounted inside the cabinet below the cooktop, accessible through the cabinet door. The cooktop comes with a pigtail cord that plugs into it.

The receptacle must be:

Rated for the circuit amperage (a 40A cooktop cord must go into a 40A receptacle — not a 50A receptacle)
Located inside the cabinet, not behind the cooktop where it cannot be reached
Accessible without moving the cooktop

Junction Box Inside the Cabinet

Whether hardwired or receptacle, the wiring junction point lives inside the cabinet below. Here is what that looks like in a properly done installation:

The circuit cable runs from the panel to the cabinet, either through the wall cavity and then down into the cabinet, or through a conduit run.
Inside the cabinet, the cable is secured and protected. Where it transitions through the cabinet floor or wall, a bushing or grommet protects it from the sharp edge of the hole.
If hardwired: a junction box is mounted inside the cabinet. The supply cable terminates in that box. A length of conduit (typically 1/2" EMT or flex) runs from the junction box up through the cabinet floor or roof into the cooktop's terminal block.
The conduit is secured at both ends with appropriate fittings.

Anti-Short Bushings and Strain Relief

Two fittings that get skipped more often than they should:

Anti-short bushings (insulating bushings): Installed at the end of conduit where wire exits. The cut end of conduit can have sharp edges that abrade wire insulation over time, especially with vibration from the cooktop. A plastic anti-short bushing slips over the conduit end and covers those edges. Required by NEC 300.4 when conductors enter a fitting.

Strain relief (cable connectors): Where a cable — rather than individual conductors in conduit — enters a box or the cooktop itself, a strain relief connector clamps the cable jacket and prevents the wires inside from being pulled at the termination points. Without a strain relief, any tension on the cable transfers directly to the wire connections, which can loosen terminals over time.

Both of these are cheap parts. Skip them and you have a code violation and a potential failure point.

Panel and Circuit Sharing: Why the Cooktop Needs Its Own Breaker

This comes up constantly in remodels where someone is pulling out a gas range and installing a separate cooktop and wall oven. The question: can they share a circuit?

The answer is no — at least not without a specific type of multi-wire branch circuit setup designed for it, and even then, most inspectors and manufacturers want a dedicated circuit for each appliance.

Here is the reasoning:

A cooktop at full load — all four burners on high — can pull 30A to 50A. A wall oven at full load can pull another 20A to 30A. If they are on the same 50A breaker, the combined draw can exceed the breaker rating and the wire's ampacity.

The distinction from a freestanding range: a slide-in or freestanding range is a single appliance. It has one nameplate, one cord, one connection point. The manufacturer has engineered the combined wattage of the cooktop and oven elements to work within a single 50A circuit because they cannot all run at full power simultaneously. The internal wiring of the range manages load distribution.

A separate cooktop and a separate wall oven are two independent appliances. They have their own nameplates and their own maximum loads. They cannot be assumed to load-share the way a range's internal wiring does.

Bottom line: run a dedicated circuit for the cooktop. Run a separate dedicated circuit for the wall oven. Size each one independently based on its own nameplate.

Cutout Dimensions

The cooktop drops into a hole cut in the countertop. Getting that hole right matters — too large and the trim ring does not cover the gap; too small and the cooktop does not fit.

Measuring for the Cutout

Every cooktop ships with a cutout template or lists exact cutout dimensions in the installation manual. Do not guess — use the manufacturer's dimensions. A standard 30-inch 4-burner cooktop has a cutout roughly 28.5" x 19.5", but this varies by brand and model.

Measure the cutout with calipers or a careful tape — you need accuracy to within 1/8". Corner radius also matters: most cutouts have a small radius (1/4" to 1/2") at the corners rather than a sharp 90-degree angle. Use a jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade and drill a pilot hole in each corner before making the straight cuts.

Drop-In vs. Undermount

Drop-in cooktops are the most common residential type. The unit sits in the cutout with a frame that rests on top of the countertop surface. Trim covers the gap between the unit and the countertop edge. Installation from above.

Undermount or flush-mount cooktops are installed so the top surface is flush with the countertop. Less common, requires specific bracket systems, and demands a very precise cutout. More often seen in European-style kitchens and high-end remodels.

Clearance to Countertop Edges

The cooktop must not be too close to the edge of the countertop. Minimum clearances are specified by the manufacturer and by building codes. Typical requirements:

Clearance Type	Minimum Distance
Side edge of cooktop to countertop edge	2" minimum (check model)
Front edge of cooktop to front edge of counter	4" minimum (check model)
Cooktop surface to overhead cabinet	24" minimum
Cooktop surface to overhead microwave	Per microwave spec (often 18" minimum)

The 24" overhead clearance is a fire safety requirement. Some jurisdictions and some overhead cabinet configurations require more. If there is an overhead cabinet directly above the cooktop, measure from the cooking surface to the bottom of the cabinet.

Depth Into Cabinet

The cooktop body hangs down into the cabinet below. The depth of that body — typically 4" to 6" for most units — must not conflict with shelving, drawers, or the junction box / conduit inside the cabinet. Remove any shelves from the cabinet below before installation and plan the junction box location to avoid the cooktop body.

Ventilation Requirements

Neither electric resistance nor induction cooktops produce combustion byproducts (no carbon monoxide, no nitrogen dioxide). This does not mean ventilation is optional. Cooking produces steam, grease vapors, smoke, and fine particulates regardless of heat source. Those need to go somewhere.

Why Ventilation Still Matters

When you cook — boiling water, searing meat, frying anything — you generate:

Steam and moisture (leads to condensation, mold over time without ventilation)
Grease aerosols (coat cabinets, surfaces, and lungs)
Cooking vapors and odors
Fine particulate matter from high-heat cooking

A kitchen without ventilation accumulates all of this. Over time, grease builds up on cabinets and walls. Moisture affects millwork and drywall. Air quality in the kitchen degrades during cooking.

CFM Requirements: Electric vs. Gas

The general rule is that electric and induction cooktops require less ventilation capacity than gas because they do not add combustion gases to the equation. Gas cooktops generate heat and combustion products that require higher airflow to exhaust.

General residential guidelines:

Cooktop Type	Minimum Recommended CFM
Gas (BTU-based)	1 CFM per 100 BTU (typically 400-800 CFM)
Electric radiant	150-300 CFM typical
Induction	100-250 CFM typical

These are guidelines, not hard code requirements in most jurisdictions. Some local codes specify minimums. Check the local mechanical code.

The actual CFM needed also depends on:

The size and ventilation of the kitchen
Whether the vent exhausts to the exterior or recirculates through a filter
How often and how intensively the cooktop is used
The size of the hood — a larger hood captures more of the cooking plume at lower CFM

Recirculating (ductless) range hoods filter grease and odors but return air to the kitchen. They do nothing for moisture and heat. For real ventilation performance, ducted-to-exterior is the standard to meet.

Hood Position and Sizing

The range hood or ventilation unit should:

Be at least as wide as the cooktop (wider is better for capture efficiency)
Be positioned 24" to 30" above the cooking surface for wall-mount hoods (check manufacturer specs)
Have a duct size that matches the CFM rating — undersized duct creates back pressure and noise

Downdraft Ventilation Systems

Some homeowners cannot install overhead ventilation — island installations, low ceilings, structural obstacles — or simply prefer the clean look of no overhead hood. Downdraft systems are the answer, with trade-offs.

How Downdraft Works

A downdraft system draws cooking vapors downward rather than upward. A vent panel rises from behind or beside the cooking surface, and a blower pulls air down through the vent, through ductwork below the countertop, and out through the cabinet and floor.

Built-In Downdraft Cooktops

Several manufacturers — Jenn-Air was the pioneer, and several others have followed — produce cooktops with integrated downdraft systems. The cooktop and ventilation are a single unit. Advantages: clean appearance, single installation. Disadvantages: when one component fails, the whole unit is affected; replacement is more complex.

Separate Downdraft Units

A freestanding downdraft ventilator can be installed adjacent to an existing cooktop. It requires its own cutout in the countertop and its own duct pathway.

Duct Routing for Downdraft Systems

This is where downdraft installations get complicated. The duct has to go down, not up:

From the blower, the duct runs down through the floor of the cabinet.
Through a hole in the subfloor and into the crawl space or basement.
Then horizontally to an exterior wall or up through the floor structure to an exterior exit.

In slab-on-grade construction, this routing is difficult — you cannot run duct through concrete. Some installers route the duct to the side, through the cabinet wall, and then horizontally along the wall interior to an exterior exit, which adds length and reduces effective CFM.

Long duct runs reduce performance. For every 90-degree elbow, you lose the equivalent of roughly 5-10 linear feet of duct run (depending on the blower manufacturer's specs). A downdraft system with a 6-inch duct that works well with a 10-foot total equivalent duct length will perform poorly with 30 feet and four elbows.

CFM adequacy is a real concern with downdraft. Downdraft systems are generally less effective than overhead ventilation because they are fighting the natural convection of rising hot air. For high-heat cooking, the CFM requirement for an effective downdraft system is often 25-50% higher than for an equivalent overhead hood.

Converting from Gas to Electric or Induction

This is one of the most common scenarios driving cooktop replacements. The old gas range comes out, and the homeowner wants an induction cooktop (and possibly a separate wall oven). Here is what is actually involved.

Step 1: Cap the Gas Line

The gas supply must be capped and pressure-tested. This is permitted work in virtually every jurisdiction. A licensed plumber or gas technician caps the line at the appliance shutoff or further back, and an inspector verifies the gas system is intact. Do not skip this step.

Step 2: New 240V Circuit

There is no existing 240V circuit in the kitchen if the range was gas (gas ranges typically only need a 120V outlet for the igniter and clock). A new circuit must be run from the main panel to the cooktop location.

This may be straightforward if the panel has capacity and a clear path from the panel to the kitchen wall cavity. It may be complex if:

The panel is at capacity and needs a new breaker slot (possibly requiring load calculations)
The panel is old and undersized (some older homes have 100A or even 60A service — a 50A cooktop circuit eats a significant chunk of that)
The path from panel to kitchen requires running wire through finished walls, which means patching drywall

Have the panel evaluated before committing to the project if the home is more than 30 years old and has never had the service upgraded.

Step 3: Cabinet Modification

The gas range typically occupied the full width of the range space — usually 30 inches — with no countertop on top. When converting to a cooktop, countertop must be installed over the area where the range opening was, and the cooktop drops into a cutout in that counter.

If the opening had cabinets on both sides, countertop fabrication is required. The existing countertop sections may need to be joined, replaced, or a new center section installed. This is often the most expensive part of a gas-to-induction conversion that does not get mentioned up front.

The base cabinet below the old range position may need modification. Ranges have specific base dimensions; a standard cabinet may need to be installed or modified to fill the space.

Step 4: Ventilation Changes

Gas ranges often had a simple recirculating microwave/hood above or a basic overhead hood. For an induction cooktop — especially on an island — ventilation may need to be reconsidered. You may be downgrading the required CFM (good), but you may also be changing the physical ventilation setup entirely.

Step 5: Cookware Assessment

This is specific to induction. If the homeowner is going from gas to induction, every piece of cookware must be tested. Copper, aluminum, and glass pots will not work. Replacing a full set of cookware adds cost to the conversion.

Permits: When Required and What Inspectors Check

When a Permit Is Required

Almost universally, running a new electrical circuit requires an electrical permit. This includes:

New 240V circuit for a cooktop where none previously existed
Upgrading an existing circuit to a higher amperage
Moving the circuit termination point

Replacing a like-for-like cooktop on an existing, correctly sized circuit is sometimes exempt from permit in some jurisdictions. Do not assume — call the local building department and ask.

The gas cap-off work also requires a permit in most jurisdictions.

What the Inspector Checks

For an electrical rough-in inspection (before drywall is closed if the work is in walls):

Correct wire gauge for the circuit
Proper stapling and protection of wire runs
No splices outside of boxes
Breaker size matches wire gauge and does not exceed nameplate MOCP

For a final inspection:

Junction box is accessible
Strain relief is installed where required
Anti-short bushings at conduit ends
Receptacle properly rated (if plug-connected)
Cooktop mounted per manufacturer's instructions
Clearances to overhead cabinets met

The inspector is not going to run every burner, but they will check the panel, trace the circuit, and verify the visible connection points. Sloppy work inside the cabinet gets flagged.

Common Installation Mistakes

1. Shared Circuit with the Oven or Other Appliances

Already covered above, but worth repeating: the cooktop must be on its own circuit. A wall oven goes on its own circuit. The fact that a freestanding range uses one circuit does not mean a cooktop and wall oven can share a circuit.

2. Undersized Wire

Someone pulls out a 30A cooktop and installs a 50A model without changing the wire. The new cooktop has 10 AWG wire on a 50A breaker. That wire is rated for 30A. The breaker does not trip at 30A — it trips at 50A — which means the wire can overheat significantly before any protection engages. This is a fire hazard and a code violation.

Always confirm the wire gauge is appropriate for the new circuit amperage when replacing a cooktop with a higher-wattage model.

3. Missing Strain Relief

The cable entering the junction box or the cooktop terminal compartment is not secured with a strain relief connector. Over time, vibration and incidental contact with the cable cause the wire connections to loosen. A loose connection at a high-current terminal is a source of arcing and heat damage.

4. Junction Box Not Accessible

The wiring junction is buried behind a cabinet back, under a drawer, or otherwise blocked so that it cannot be inspected or serviced without tearing out the installation. NEC requires junction boxes to remain accessible. Plan the junction box location before mounting it.

5. No Anti-Short Bushings at Conduit Ends

Conduit is cut with a hacksaw or cutting wheel and left with a sharp edge. Wire routed through that conduit gets abraded at the conduit end. Over years, the insulation wears through. Install insulating bushings at every conduit termination. It takes 30 seconds and costs almost nothing.

6. Breaker Too Small for the Load

Conversely, some installers look at a 40A MCA cooktop and put it on a 40A breaker sized for a 30A circuit — meaning they reuse the 10 AWG wire on a 40A breaker. The wire cannot handle 40A continuous. The breaker may not trip, but the wire will run hot.

Size the breaker to the circuit, and size the circuit to the appliance's MCA times 1.25.

7. Cooktop Too Close to the Countertop Edge

The cooktop is installed right at the countertop edge, with less than 2 inches of counter between the cooktop frame and the edge. A pot of boiling water on the front burner is now hanging partially over empty space. This is a safety issue and may be a code violation depending on local requirements.

8. Ignoring the Overhead Clearance

A cabinet directly above the cooktop is lower than 24 inches from the cooking surface. This violates the clearance requirement and creates a fire risk. If the existing overhead cabinet is too low, it needs to be raised or replaced.

9. Using the Wrong Receptacle Rating

A 50A cord gets plugged into a 30A receptacle. The receptacle overheats. Or a 30A receptacle is replaced with a 50A because "it fits better" — now the 30A wire is feeding a 50A receptacle, and the breaker and receptacle are mismatched. Match the receptacle rating to the circuit amperage, always.

10. Assuming All Cookware Works (Induction)

The homeowner buys an induction cooktop and discovers half their pots and pans do not work. This should be sorted out before the purchase, not after.

DIY vs. Hiring It Out

The honest assessment of what a competent homeowner can do safely versus what requires a licensed electrician:

What a Homeowner Can Reasonably Do

Removing the old cooktop
Measuring and cutting the new countertop cutout (if confident with a jigsaw)
Installing the cooktop into the cutout per manufacturer instructions
Plugging in a plug-connected cooktop if the existing receptacle is correctly rated and accessible
Testing cookware compatibility for induction
Calling for inspections

What Requires an Electrician

Running a new 240V circuit from the panel to the kitchen
Any work inside the main electrical panel (adding a breaker, checking capacity)
Hardwired connections
Upgrading wire gauge for a higher-amperage circuit
Any installation that requires a permit and licensed-contractor signature in the jurisdiction

The Specific Case of Replacing Like-for-Like

If the existing cooktop is on a correctly sized dedicated circuit and the new unit has the same or lower amperage requirements, and the connection is plug-based, a competent homeowner can do the swap. Unplug the old unit, lift it out, drop in the new one, plug it in. Straightforward.

If any of the following are true, bring in a licensed electrician:

New unit has a higher amperage than the old one
Circuit needs to be run from scratch
The existing wiring looks questionable (wrong gauge, old wiring types, no ground)
The work requires a permit in your jurisdiction

The Gas-to-Electric Conversion

This one almost always requires professionals. You need a licensed plumber or gas technician to cap the gas line, and a licensed electrician to run the new circuit. The countertop modification and cooktop installation itself can often be homeowner-handled, but the trades work on either side of it needs licensed professionals.

Quick-Reference Summary

Item	Typical Requirement
Circuit voltage	240V dedicated
Wire type	Copper NM-B, MC, or THHN in conduit
30A circuit wire gauge	10 AWG
40A circuit wire gauge	8 AWG
50A circuit wire gauge	6 AWG
60A circuit wire gauge	4 AWG
Breaker sizing rule	MCA x 1.25, round up to next standard size
Max breaker size	Do not exceed nameplate MOCP
Junction box	Must be accessible without removing cooktop
Strain relief	Required where cable enters box or appliance
Anti-short bushings	Required at conduit terminations
Overhead clearance	24" minimum to bottom of overhead cabinet
Cooktop to counter edge	2" minimum (verify with manufacturer)
Shared circuit with oven	Not permitted — each appliance needs own circuit
Ventilation CFM (induction)	100-250 CFM typical
Ventilation CFM (radiant)	150-300 CFM typical
Induction cookware	Must be ferromagnetic (magnet sticks to base)
Permits	Required for new circuit in most jurisdictions

Conclusion

An electric or induction cooktop installation is not complicated, but it has specific requirements at every step: the right circuit, the right wire, the right breaker, accessible connections, and proper clearances. Skip any of these and you create a problem that ranges from a nuisance (tripping breaker) to a hazard (overheated wiring, fire).

If the circuit is already in place and the swap is like-for-like, a careful homeowner can handle the cooktop installation. If there is any new electrical work — and especially if you are converting from gas — pull the permit, hire the trades, and get the inspection. The cost of doing it right is much less than the cost of fixing it after something goes wrong.